Big River Pizza began at area farmers markets as a roving pizza oven that beguiled shoppers. Now they’re sitting pretty in a brick-and-mortar directly across from one of the best markets in town: the St. Paul Farmers’ Market. How fitting for these makers of rustic, wood-fired pizzas with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Get the Dr. Zeus, piled with plump artichokes, kalamata olives, feta, and spinach, and so laden with toppings it takes two hands to eat. Or try a spicy chile-oil based pie like the Chet, loaded with thick cuts of salami and lardo, and finished with a sprightly, lemony arugula. The toppings are a treat, but the crust is no slouch either, with a thin, crispy base, respectable char from the oven, and enough chew to keep it from being brittle. The 16-inch pie is more than enough for two hungry adults or several eager snackers. Wash it down with a Surly or a glass of sustainable wine and maybe a cup of Sweet Science ice cream for your dolce.
-City Pages
