“Twenty or so minutes into our first meal at Big River Pizza in Saint Paul’s Lowertown, a pizza lovers’ quarrel broke out. But as we debated crust density, sauce distribution, and topping combinations, our two-year-old dining companion cut in with urgency: “I need that!” His tiny finger pointed at the Proud Mary ($12 / $16), the restaurant’s take on the classic pizza Margherita. In three simple words he’d summarized our feelings about Big River. We need it.”
